The Pub at the End of the World.

The Black Sheep Pub is not a business. Owners Joe and Helena Wygal might call it a particularly expensive hobby. One friend described it as a museum. The word I'm going with is shrine--as in, a shrine to pubs everywhere and the beer that flows through their veins.

"I love the pub culture," Joe said over nonic pints. The beer was cool and not cold,* but the glasses sweat anyway in Guanacaste's jungle heat. "I had to start my own down here. It's not a replica. It's just a tribute."

The pub is its own small building but is essentially a part of the Wygals' private home. It is up in the hills near Nosara, popular for surfing and yoga and for being pretty far from anywhere else. Coming from San José, depending on traffic, you might be in for four hours of pavement and 45 minutes of gravel road.

We arrived at our hotel in Nosara and called the number, according to prior instructions. Gunter came to pick us up, and that's when the road got really bumpy. His stories distracted us from the fear that the potholes would rattle his doors off their hinges. And he came from the same city in Germany, Kiel, where my grandfather was born. Of course he did.

The journey adds much to the gladness of arrival, as does seeing four or five different beers on draft, which is almost totally unheard of in Costa Rica. On our visit Tim the barman (also the neighbor) was pulling pints from two Volcano beers, the Witch's Rock Pale Ale and Malo Gato brown, and three from Costa Rica's Craft Brewing: the red and hoppy Segua, the golden Libertas, and the sweetish and full-bodied seasonal IPA. It's got bottled imports too, complete with proper glassware. (The Duvel I had in mid-session was a pleasant strategic mistake, for which I paid the next day.)

The walls are appropriately loaded down with bric-a-brac. There is an Irish corner and nods to Germans and Czechs. MJ was there too, in photographic form, with an autograph. He once stayed at the Wygals' place in Boston, where they had a similar private pub and did their part for the New England Real Ale Exhibition. (Sadly, no cask ale down here, yet.)

Utterly reasonable prices reinforce the fact that this is not a for-profit operation. In reality the prices are more like donations to keep the shrine going.

As a rule the Black Sheep is only open Saturday evenings, the occasional drinking holiday, and private parties. Prospective visitors should call 8928-5752 to inquire and ask how best to get there. Maybe Gunter will come pick you up.


*Update: Joe and Helena sent me a message, concerned that the everyday drinker would misinterpret this and think that the beer is un-cold. They prefer to describe it as "just cold enough." So there you go.

Adventure as an Excuse for Beercation.

So it's been a while since we checked in with Volcano Brewing up near Tilarán. That's on the northwest side of Lake Arenal, if you want to unfold the map and have a look.

Sly folk looking to work crafty beer into their honeymoons or adventure travel would do well to mark it down. Two of the most popular destinations in Costa Rica are Volcán Arenal -- a proper, active cone rather than a big smoky hole in the ground -- and the laid-back beaches of Guanacaste, on the Pacific Coast. The smart way to get from one to the other is to rent a car and drive the northern route around Lake Arenal. Conveniently, that takes a thirsty gentleperson right by Volcano Brewing and the newly re-badged Lakeview Hotel.

No long ago it was called the Hotel Tilawa. We stayed there once, to meet the owner, J.P. Cazedessus, who was trying to get the brewpub started. The place was rough-and-ready; "in need of some TLC," was how we put it. In the off-season it felt like a private hostel. Now the hotel is under new management and a new name, while Cazedessus focuses on the brewery and eco-friendly housing projects. It remains a windsurfing destination, and there are options for hiking, fishing, boating, riding horses, whatever. Most importantly for our purposes, the beer is flowing.

Meanwhile: The flagship is called Witch's Rock, an American-style pale ale, and there are seasonals from time to time. The beer's name comes from a dramatic chunk of Planet Earth that juts out of the Pacific Ocean and enjoys a reputation for excellent surfing. Volcano Brewing is now connected to Witch's Rock Surf Camp in Tamarindo, where the pale ale ought to be on tap at Joe's place. So that could be your Guanacaste destination, if you're in need of one.

We stayed in Tamarindo not too long ago, and it was nothing if not versatile. You can get your high from wining, dining and massages, from surfing and sunsets, or from that friendly dude out on the sidewalk selling weed. Mix and match according to interest. Now, I reckon, we can add crafty beer to the list.

Costa Rica Gets First Craft Brewers Association.

We're getting way past the point where I need to say, "Hey, look, there is a craft beer culture starting to develop in Costa Rica!" It's the fact of the matter. Witness the development of civil society at its thirstiest.

More interesting now is where this nascent local beer culture goes from here. There is an announcement related to that, but first the news...

The Asociación de Cerveceros Artesanales de Costa Rica -- Costa Rica's Association of Craft Brewers -- is a reality in name, if not quite legally. Fourteen brewers, pro and amateur, met on Sunday to form the group at the Bodega de Chema. This meeting laid the groundwork for formal registration with the government. (Remember, this is a very bureaucratic country and there's a certain way to do things, and that way usually involves paying lawyers.)

The group's goals: (1) to promote the culture and growth of craft beer; (2) to promote the responsible enjoyment of that beer; (3) to support the country's craft beer businesses; (4) to provide services for members, such as improving the brewers' technical know-how; and (5) to promote friendship, solidarity and social responsibility among its members.

It's not cheap to get a lawyer and register an association, so the group has to raise some money. That's where the announcement comes in.

Plans are in the works for Costa Rica's first festival de cerveza artesanal... April is looking likely at the moment. Got to keep things vague until things are finalized, but there will be more details soon. Costa Rica's Craft Brewing, generously, is taking the lead in organizing the event. Proceeds will go to the association. Stay tuned.

So, a craft brewers' assoiation and a craft beer festival. Can it be long before there's a Costa Rica Craft Beer Week? Maybe we should just go ahead and declare it now. Plan your surfing tours and eco-vacations around it.

Beery News for Ticos, Gringos and Turistas.

There has been a change of brewers at Hotel Tilawa's Volcano Brew, overlooking Costa Rica's scenic Lake Arenal. But I'm told the Beach Pale Ale and as-yet-unnamed Hefeweizen are still flowing. Ideal for anyone wanting to try out some kiteboarding or windsurfing and enjoy some decent beer before or after.

George Lin recently left Volcano Brew to spend more time on his own fledgling Pittsburgh-area microbrewery, Forsaken Brew Works. (More on that soon. Belgophiles will want to know.) Meanwhile, Hotel Tilawa creator-owner J.P. Cazedessus says brewer Martin Cornelius has arrived to help out, and that off-premises sales are coming soon. I'm trying to get to Lake Arenal for another visit and will keep you posted.

Meanwhile, Costa Rica's Craft Brewing is gradually and carefully adding new accounts, better known as more joints where you can find their beers.

This week they added the sports bar Hooligans, located in Escazú's Multiplaza shopping mall. (I have to say the CRCB taps looked mighty purty sitting there between two fonts of Imperial.) You can find more locations on this section of the brewery's Facebook page. The local company Belca is now handling distribution.

Local drinkers will get the chance to try a couple more styles from CRCB in the near future. A stout is on the way for St. Patrick's Day, and a Scottish ale will make an appearance soon as well. Derrick told me the Scottish ale might become a regular beer if it goes over well enough.

So the adventure continues.

There's Fresh Beer at Arenal, Kegs in the Valle Central, and Plans in El Salvador.

Lots of newsy news today from everybody's favorite craft beer destination, Central America. Dig it.

First: A surprise message this morning from George Lin, the brewer and partner at Volcano Brew. At loooooong last, there is craft beer there. For real. The long-awaited load of malt showed up three weeks ago and George wasted no time. Now on draft at Hotel Tilawa, overlooking scenic Lake Arenal, are a Beach Pale Ale and a fruity Hefeweizen. And by the way, peak windsurfing season is approaching.

I've written some about Volcano Brew, but mostly I've held off. I didn't want to call too much attention to them before they were really, really ready. It appears that moment has come. Congratulations to George and Jean Paul Cazedessus, George's partner and the hotel's owner. That's them in the photo (J.P. on the left, George on the right). They're interesting dudes and Tilawa is a unique place, to say the least, so expect to hear more about them soon.

Second, an update on Costa Rica's Craft Brewing: Co-owner Brandon Nappy tells me that they're having more success than expected at selling draft beer accounts. This is bigger news that you might think, since draft beer is a real rarity here. There will be some education involved, on maintenance, pouring, glassware, and so on. I'm really looking forward to sitting at a couple of these local places and watching this whole foreign process--what, drink beer from a glass?--in action.

Anyway, choosy bars and restaurants dotted around the Central Valley might start serving CRC golden and pale ales on draft as soon as the first week of December. If I can, I'll share info about where exactly to find it when the time comes. So stay tuned, bebedores.

Finally: El Salvador may get its first brewpub early next year. David Falkenstein is a Salvadoran homebrewer who's preparing to go pro. He's brushing up on his craft and working through red tape to launch a new micro in, theoretically, March or April 2011.

The idea is to attach the micro to an existing and successful pub, the name of which I've been asked to keep mum on for now. Interestingly, David married a gal from St. Louis and learns from the brewers at Schlafly and Morgan Street when he's in town. He's also part of a dedicated group of beer geeks in San Salvador. These guys lug home suitcases full of bottles, malt, hops and yeast whenever they travel. Should be some interesting beers coming out of there, eventually.

That's plenty for now.

Costa Rican Functionaries, Get Your Ribbons and Stamps Ready for a Load of Malt.

Local update: Brewer George Lin of Volcano Brew, at Hotel Tilawa up near Tilarán, reports that things are still on track up north... The long-awaited malt delivery is finally and officially on the way. This is just a guess on my part, but figuring in local importation bureaucracy -- a true art form in Costa Rica -- and plain old fermentation and conditioning time, we might see some finished beer up there come December or January. Again, that's my guess, so don't blame them if I'm too optimistic. I'm learning, too slowly, that all the usual timetables are tossed out the window upon arrival in this country. Pura vida.

If you're keeping score, that makes three craft breweries trying to find their legs here: Costa Rica's Craft Brewing Company in Cartago, Perra Hermosa in Malpaís, and Volcano Brew on Lake Arenal.

The owners and brewers are more or less in touch with each other. They generally say they are rooting each other on, and I believe them. It's obvious, I think, that it would take more than one or two ambitious risk-takers to foster the beginnings of something resembling a craft beer culture -- a culture that would become their niche market.... their supporters and their customers.

Stay tuned.

There Is Craft Beer in Costa Rica Again.

Trying to get caught up on the local scene after our long U.S. tour. I'm learning that things have been happening. The context: For most of this year there were absolutely zero craft breweries operating in Costa Rica. Zilch. Nada. That has thankfully changed.

First: The Malpais-based nanobrewery La Perra Hermosa--that's right, "Beautiful Bitch"--is up and running. A couple of local restaurants have its beers on draft. Brewer-proprietor Ryan Ackerman tells me: "Things are evolving and it's nice to have a whole town pulling for us." There are three beers: Blonde, Brown and MPA--Malpais Pale Ale.

I'll have more details on where to find those beers soon. Pack your surfboard because you'll have to go to Malpais to get them. But not right now. It's raining.

Second: The K&S Cerveceria, which closed in November 2009, is reportedly under new ownership in Cartago. No word yet on when we'll see its beers or if the beers themselves will change.

Also hunting for the latest on Volcano Brew up near Tilaran. And I have a lead on yet another potential brewery in the San José area. Not sure if there's anything to it. I'll let you know.

We're All Waiting for the Malt.

I'm sitting here in the lobby of the Hotel Tilawa on scenic Lake Arenal.

There's a three-barrel brewing system here that needs some spit and polish, and a broom to knock out those spider webs, but otherwise it's ready to roll. The hops are in the cooler. So is the yeast. A brewer has joined the outfit and is trying to keep busy.

All they need is the malt.

At the moment there are about 5,000 pounds of the stuff sitting in Canada. It's several weeks late now. Through no fault of its own, customs officials have decided the malt's paperwork is not altogether complete. Which is not the same as explaining exactly what paperwork is required. Bureaucracy is fun. Two governments that make an art of it are Canada and Costa Rica.

Anyway, I just wanted to say hello. There's a lot more to tell about Volcano Brew, and about another upstart on the Pacific Coast. That one is waiting on the malt too. Until it shows up, there are exactly zero microbreweries in Costa Rica. Stay tuned.