Under the Weather, Yet There is 'Work' to be Done.

Back in Belgium, jet-lagged and somewhat out of sorts. Got a big fest today and a tasting tomorrow, yet I can't tell my allergies from a cold. Can't smell a damned thing. A few good beers are likely to be wasted on me. Beats staying home.

And it must be Belgian Beer Weekend, since it's raining. Oddly appropriate and I don't mind at all. I've got my gear and the wet weather seems to clear away some of the casual drinkers. Just got to watch that the raindrops don't smear my notebook.

Last year I wasn't able to talk my way into the pre-fest ceremonies. This year I had no problem. I will be there to witness the consecration of the beer at the cathedral, the knighting ceremony at the city hall, and the "solemn inauguration" of the beer stands. That last one is the best—a blatant way for us VIPs (ha!) to drink for a while before you plebes can enter.

Need ideas for what to try? The list has a lot of chaff. How about St. Feuillien Saison, a dryish farmhouse ale that's getting good reviews. Or the Bockor Cuvée des Jacobins, a reddish-brown sour ale that Bockor uses as a blend in its sweeter beers. (This is likely the same as the damned interesting Foederbier I tried last year... Seems they are getting wise and marketing it a bit, especially for export to the U.S. Yet the Bockor team still seems to think that Belgians can't handle sour stuff and would prefer the sweet fruit beers. More on that another day, hopefully sooner rather than later.)

A couple of mysteries to me: The St. Feuillien Leon and the Verhaeghe Barbe d'Or. Both unknown names from solid breweries. Meanwhile the Maneblusser from Anker, a 6% blonde ale aiming to be the signature beer of Mechelen, is getting some hype.

So there are a few interesting things to try, besides some reliable things to drink—Saison Dupont, Timmermans Oude Gueuze, Petrus Aged Pale, etc.—if all else goes awry. Just hope I can taste them. Sniff sniff BLOW. Don't drink from my glass and please excuse the used tissue poking out of my coat pockets.

Secret Orgies in the Hotel De Ville, Public Ones in the Grand Place.

Well, no luck talking my way into Belgian Beer Weekend's costumed pre-fest ceremonies. Not for lack of trying. Maybe next year. Oh I'm sure it's all very boring, but I prefer to imagine it like Eyes Wide Shut plus beer. And what's a guy gotta do to try on a hat like this, short of trying out for the school play? Reckon if I can find a hat like that, they'll let me in automatically next year?

Elsewhere some asshat chastised me for suggesting this fest would be full of drunk Americans and Brits. I felt shame at my chauvinism, forgetting about all the drunk Belgians. Until I actually went to the fest. Let's just say that I (a) felt vindicated and (b) fit right in.

Meanwhile I saw a lot of familiar faces and met some new ones, including the classy dudes at Cave Direct. Go buy beer from them.

The fest's most interesting beer to me was that Bockor Foederbier. Not too complex, but it was tart and refreshing. Something between an unblended Flemish sour and a malty lambic, and it could be the base for the brewery's sweeter commercial beers (I can't recommend the Max series unless you prefer fruit candy to fruit beer). It's still mysterious but I'll let you know when I find out more. With luck Bockor will prioritize this more serious and interesting offering.

Another pleasant surprise was revisiting the light, fresh and hoppy Saison 1900 from Lefebvre, whose other, sweeter beers – such as Barbar – usually fail to turn me on. The Saison was a bit malty but fairly low on esters, making me think of lager or even Kölsch. Not a bad thing. Still, it was flabby next to Saison Dupont. Of which I had several glasses. Even though I have plenty at home. Shameless, I know.

Next up: Bruxellensis. A more discriminating, buttoned-down affair. No orgies as far as I know, but the selection of veggie quiches is impressive.

How to Avoid Beers Made from Cactus and Quinua.

A couple of years ago two friends of mine approached Belgian Beer Weekend on the Grand Place with a perverse idea: a competition to see who can find the absolute worst beer at the fest. After a few trials they arrived at Huyghe's Mongozo Coconut. There was no need to go further. The unique blend of sugar syrup, alcohol and suntan lotion had brought the contest to an end.

But let's say you want to approach this weekend's fest with a curiosity that's less scientific, more hedonistic. You actually want to try some good beer – preferably stuff you can't find in a Belgian grocery store – and annoy your friends by consistently picking better ones than they do.

I can help. Or at least I can cut through the noise on this prolific beer list. Bear in mind that your tastes and your own, so own them. No refunds, no guarantees.

Beer to start with while you make your drinking plan: Easy. Saison Dupont, on draft.

Breweries to try if you've never tried them: Dupont, Verhaeghe, St. Bernardus, Boon, Bavik and De Landtsheer. In that order I think. Trappist breweries: Achel and Westvleteren, since they're all nice but the other four are widely available.

A few rarities and curiosities:

Bockor Foederbier: I've never seen this anywhere. Could be an unblended version of the Bellegems Bruin, a red Flemish sour in the vein of Rodenbach. The word "Foederbier" suggests it's straight from the barrel. Possibly, maybe connected to the Grand Cru Rouge that Bockor made for Ommegang in New York (and thus for Duvel Moortgat).

Chapeau Cuvée: De Troch makes a lot of dumb, commercial fruit beers. But they also make this apparently authentic and interesting gueuze. The St. Louis Gueuze Fond Tradition from Van Honsebrouck is a similar exception. Besides the two Boon gueuzes those are the only serious ones on the list.

Boon Lambic: Frank Boon's aged and unblended lambic, straight from the barrel. Or a plastic jug that was recently filled straight from the barrel. Sour and strange but refreshing. In Belgium it's only found in a small handful of cafés.*

If none of those float your boat, well, we can't be friends. In that case I suggest the Floris Cactus.

Good luck.

*(such as the Belga Queen in Brussels, pictured here, which also has the unfiltered Palm pale ale)